![]() I assume the stop position is the at rest position when the levers are resting on the steel peg on the floor board. Question 3: the procedure says the Steering Levers should be 1.5" from the stop position when the clutch engages. ![]() Question 2: is this procedure bad for the clutches since its possible that the clutch you are not working on is already engaged but the brake is holding the clutch in place? I don't want to tear anything up during this process. Question 1: where the heck do you stand to do this procedure? Or are you getting on and off the crawler a lot testing linkage adjustments? So now I have a crawler running, in gear, with the brake applied, and the seat off.and trying to figure out when the clutch engages and when it disengages. The manual states to start the engine (what RPM?), place in 1st gear, place reverser in gear (forward, reverse, doesn't matter?), set the foot brake and lock it down. However, this is the first time I'll be making these adjustments and I have a few questions for those that have done it before. It seems straight forward if you have done it before. i am changing that and getting service manuals hopefully soon.The service manual documents a procedure to adjust the steering valve rods and levers. this is a 76 with 3000 hours, previous single owner but has been sitting in a yard for about 3 years with no TLC. This is alot of questions so i appreciate your answers and tips in advance. buddy of mine that had another unit, same age, swears by putting iso alchol in all fluids expect for engine oil. when in gear, after moving forward and then put in neutral on reverser dozer will continue to creep forward slightly until i break or floor the clutch pedal, wont creep after that on level ground.ĥ. spring is easy to replace and had floor plates off but now, from previous forum topics, seems this problem might be related to fluids and 'rate of shift' adjustor? does this sound correct? no blockage of linkage -cleared out leaves, stick, dead mice etc.Ĥ. gears will not shift without grinding and cluch petal is real soft without much resistance. Ran fuel out of feed for a few minutes when filter was off. Has been below freezing in Maine for awhile). deisel was running rough and lost power when pushing so replaced fuel filter (sump drain in fuel tank clogged or frozen. After working on it and warming up and running tranny fluid was seem leaking from left side of tranny where clutch pedal enters housing. A related problem? I filled reverser with new oil to proper level. In checking fluids initially, reverser was bone dry and milky looking, transmission was over filled and milky. therefore it is all a hydraulic system, i think from reading in this forum. my unit has a reverser so no dry clutch for tranny. it is new to me and i spent the last weekend getting very familar with the unit with just the operators manual and a lot of grease. ![]() ![]() In numerous posts you guys seem to be very experienced with the 350. I am new to this forum and just getting familar on how to post this publicly.
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